Sunday, April 29, 2012

2012 - The Thailand Adventure Begins…and what an adventure so far!


So here we are at last, at the hotel in Krabi, Thailand. After a few uneventful days in Bangkok that saw a us lose more than our own body weight in sweat and get asked twice by locals in the street: “Whyeeee youuuu sooooor whieeeete?” we traveled the 12 hours by bus to the “heaven” part of TEFLHeaven. As the sun rose golden this morning, we got our first glimpse of limestone cliffs spearing their way to the sky, stunted only by lush green hats of tropical brush. Stumbled off the bus after not much sleep into the bliss of a large, cold, clean, white hotel room with huge beds, cold tile floors and no roommates except for something scuffling and squeaking in the roof. (We shared a mixed dorm room with 6 other people in Bangkok). Managed a swim in the pool and a brief walk to the stunning beach complete with swaying palm trees, before gorging on some particularly suspicious street food (more on this in another email) and crashing into bed.

After about 4 hours of delicious sleep I awoke to the bed doing this strange jiggly movement. Thinking that Pete was maybe twitching in his sleep, I got out of bed only to find the floor and TV making the same jelly like wobble. And then it stopped. Woke Pete up, opened the door and saw the hotel staff on their cell phones turning off the pool pump looking for ripples in the water. After eventually confirming that it was an earthquake (which wasn’t as easy as it may seem given the massive language barrier) we then started worrying about the likelihood of a tsunami. Turned on the TV to catch the 4pm BBC news which had as its breaking headline: 8.2 magnitude earthquake just hit a town in Sumatra. And then the sirens began. Fortunately, after the devastation of the previous tsunami the locals and alarm system is a lot more prepared. We even had a guy on a scooter zipping round the pool tooting his horn to alert everyone! We were told to grab anything important and meet at reception. Pete and I grabbed our passports, all cash, computer, phones and water, donned a hat and some shoes and joined the hordes who literally were heading for the hills!! Our group was split up quite a bit by the panic of some and the calm of others. We stayed together and after getting dropped off along the road by the hotel tuk-tuk (local version of a minibus) we kept walking along the road, following the traffic up, wherever “up” may be. We were passed by wonderful locals offering us rides on the back of their bikes and in their trucks. Some of the group panicked and grabbed this option which led them to a shopping mall in Krabi Town, about an hour inland. The rest of us found a dirt farm road that hiked up the side of a cliff and decided this would make a very decent and not too distant escape. We climbed to the top (about 150m above sea level) and discovered a sap tree farm with an exquisite panorama of the coastline and a little tin roof shack. If this wave was coming we would be able to see it!
Unfortunately, we were quick to learn that running from a tsunami has little to do with running away and more to do with waiting somewhere safe until the danger passes. But “safe” can be a fluid concept, particularly when black thunderheads are rolling in from behind you and lightning is forking across the sky towards the very direction the tsunami is supposed to be coming from! Yup, Zeus had met Poseidon’s challenge and it began to rain. But not “rain” as the English like to call it. More of a monsoon type downpour with raindrops the size of ping pong balls and thundering crashes of lightning that made us think sheltering in the tin hut with a bunch of locals was probably not the smartest idea. Oh well, it was this or getting soaked under the sap trees outside. 

By now it was about 5pm. With modern technology most of us had made contact with home and were receiving regular updates about the progress of the tsunami warnings via news channels across the world.  Pete was fantastic in liaising with the main group leader, who was stuck at the airport picking up the last of the guys to join our group. 

Zeus and Poseidon would continue their “argy bargy” for another few hours yet. We were told a second earthquake had hit Sumatra and Phuket airport had been closed. Tsunami warnings were maintained and we would have to wait another few hours until it was safe to return to the hotel. The rain eased a little and we decided to head down the hill to locate the others or at least find a more populated high area for some food. After faffing about for a bit, Sid arranged for the hotel transport to pick us up. Eventually we reached the same shopping centre the others had been dropped at hours earlier and were able to get some food. After dinner we found out the warnings had been officially lifted by the Thai government and it was safe to return. I guess Zeus had won because he showed off by drenching us in the back of a tuk-tuk with one final downpour that is only now fading into the distance. 

10pm and we are safe and sound back at the hotel. Internet is frustratingly slow and keeps dropping out as everyone tries to contact home and let family know we are ok. It’s been a hell of a day and wouldn’t have taken much convincing for us to think that the Mayan prophecies about the world ending in 2012 were true! But now we are safe and praise God once again for his miraculous hand in protecting us. Only a good night’s sleep awaits now….but only if our squeaky friends in the wall keep it down!

Oh no wait, actually the electricity has just gone out. Maybe we’re not done just yet…

Iceland 2012


Iceland 2012
09-13 February 2012
Pete, Chris, Christine & Me
Accommodation: Hotel Cabin, Reykjavik
Locals: Unintelligible and Viking looking but exceptionally friendly.
Geography: Black Lava Mountains and plains smattered with snow
Weather: Rain → Sun →  Sleet/hail/snow → Sun (repeat)

Day 1:
Landed in Reykjavik at about 1am, escaped London just in time as a massive snow storm hit Heathrow. Dinner at the Tin Goose after leaving the house at 4pm. Easy +- 3 hrs flight with amazing legroom and our 1st glimpse of the Northern Lights. Phenomenal mystical green light spilt across the sky that moves and disappears and makes you wonder if it was ever there in the first place…ethereal, surreal and thrilling. Can’t wait to see more! Eventually arrived at the hotel and crashed into bed after a long overdue shower at about 3am.
09:30am wake up just in time to catch the tail end of breakfast. A very groggy bunch! But nothing a cup of coffee couldn’t cure. With white clouds peeling off the snow cragged mountains around us, we strolled into town along the sea shore, black volcanic rocks lining the whole way. Passed the lopsided glass opera house and into the harbour.
Looks so much like Hout Bay: same boats, smell and seaweed, but H2O a little colder!! Stunning clear sea green ocean and apparently one of the top 10 diving stops in the world. Who Knew??!! Found a whale watching tour for 8000 ISK (1pound = +-200ISK) and spent the rest of the afternoon chasing one poor humpback whale off the coast, avoiding the weather on deck and attempting to keep breakfast down. (Not the calmest of oceans!!). I think the whale had the last laugh though.

He swam in circles around the boat making us run from side to side to back in the Icelandic hail while our captain shouted “whale-12 o’clock”, “whale-3 o’clock!” Back to the hotel for dinner before ‘suiting up’ in every item of warm clothing we owned and heading out to hunt for some clear skies. A short drive to the south-shore and we were blessed with the most incredible sight. Solar particles blasted into the atmosphere creating shifting lines of green light that looked more like a moving impressionist painting than a scientific phenomenon. And just as suddenly as we saw them they faded and were gone. Back onto the bus, but 5 mins later another cosmic green light show! More alien than natural, the whole experience was made even more special by the singularity of the evening. All Northern Lights trips were cancelled for the duration of our stay.

Day 2:
Early wake up to catch the bus to the Blue Lagoon, a huge natural pool in lava rocks heated by geothermal waters and filled with silica and algae. Left a grumpy Christine to spend the day in Reykjavik. The bus ride took us south towards Kefvlavik (sp?) through a land straight out of Lord of the Rings. Black gnarly volcanic lava rocks, crusted and crumbly. A modern Mordor covered in patchy thick green moss and smattered with snow. A perfect landscape for the local legends of trolls, goblins and elves.

Arrived and were greeted by a very modern building. Everything done with a waterproof chip on a bracelet: locked locker in change rooms, buy drinks, order poolside massages…!!! Spent hours just ‘lolling’ in the heated steamy waters, drink in hand (Viking beer for the boys and Blue Lagoon cocktail for me). Steamed and sweated in the poolside sauna and steam room, massaged by the waterfall falling into the pool and did face masks with silica paste. Eventually dragged our lethargic bodies into the showers and back onto the bus for a snooze through the lava plains to Reykjavik.

Back in town, feeling refreshed we walked through the city streets up to the church. Walked past a heated pond for the ducks and swans, up Bankstraet and via a small cafĂ© for a lunch of panini’s and pizza. Rounded this off nicely with coffee and a cookie from ‘C is for Cookie’ coffee shop. Really relaxed coffee shops and browsing stores all over Reykjavik. The whole atmosphere is very chilled. Big music and art scene so lots of shops to do with that. Stopped for a while at the church to admire the incredible organ, the sparse Nordic architecture and the view from the bell tower.

Tried the local public toilets on the street corner before winding our way through the streets back to the hotel. But not before finding a pub to watch the rugby and to buy a woollen hat (as you do!).
 After a quick freshen up at the hotel we caught the bus back into town. Found the pub, but sadly no rugby as the French ground was frozen (6 nations France vs Ireland – I really need to find more girl friends!). Turned out to be a real one horse pub and with no rugby we were entertained by old country and western songs from the Dolly Parton era…?!? Nice Tuborg beer though. Next was dinner at a restaurant whose name I couldn’t begin to pronounce let alone spell. Fortunately, the boys’ threats to eat puffin and mink whale proved empty and we enjoyed a delicious meal of steak (Pete) and Icelandic Cod (Chris and Me). Not to be outdone by the late starting locals, we headed to a dark woody bar with Polar beer on tap and some very friendly locals. (Note to self: never ask an Icelandic barman to recommend a drink. The result will be a delicious albeit deadly cocktail.)



Had a great chat to Hanna, a local lady I met in the bathroom twice and then at the bar. She takes hikers all over Iceland, up the mountains, volcanoes and glaciers. Didn’t/couldn’t last much longer after the cocktail so back to the hotel and crash into bed.
Day 3:
Early rise for our last day out and about. Booked on a Golden Circle Bus tour. 8 hrs of sightseeing into the interior of this incredible country.
First Stop: One of the early Icelandic settlements now occupied by a very American looking church. Icy wind and rain chased us quickly back onto the bus in spite of the beautiful view across green hills to the sea. Drive through local farm land with many an Icelandic ‘horse’ on show. (Really the size of a large Shetland pony, but don’t dare call them ponies!)





Next Stop: Gullfoss, the Queen of Icelandic waterfalls, a roaring mass of water thundering down 2 tiers of volcanic rock and carving a massive canyon to the sea. Beautiful and Icy. Would definitely give Niagara falls a run for its money.









Back onto the bus to brave more icy roads before reaching our lunch stop at Geysir geothermal field and hot springs. After warming up on thick Icelandic meat stew and feeling the effects of a simulated 5.0 magnitude earthquake. We hobbled over the ice like drunk penguins to see the hot springs. Incredible to glimpse the violent, incessant churning happening just below the earth’s surface. Bubbling mud and boiling water and steaming earth, broken every few minutes by an explosion from Strokkur, the smaller more reliable sister of Geysir after whom all other geysers are named. (‘Geysir’ = Icelandic word!).

Eventually back on the bus after a slightly longer stay caused by an oil leak. Drove through a complete white out where the only thing we saw was an isolate dogsled disappearing into the snow.
Final Stop:  Pingvellier National Park. What a way to end the day! A massive inland lake indicating the start of the visible crack/rift between the Atlantic plates!! The mid-Atlantic rift literally splices Iceland in half making it the only country (I think) to span across 2 continental plates: The North American plate and Eurasian Plate. Where the earth’s crust is literally being ripped apart, crystal blue water bubbles up. And to add human to geological history, this is also where the Vikings used to meet once a year to make laws and settle disputes. An incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site!!








Nearly got left behind after straying from the path and falling waist deep into the snow!

Easy drive back to Reykjavik, before a low key dinner and bed.

Day 4:

04:30am wake up for 5am pick up to the airport. Easy drive and check in before wandering through duty free spending our last krona (and a little more on volcanic earrings!!) Bought some of the unique Icelandic sweets (a frequent mixture of chocolate covered liquorice!?!) and a T-shirt for Pete. Eventually onto the plane and back to England flying over grey seas and snowy land that looked just like a winter patchwork quilt.
Home and once again it strikes me how fast 4 days can go and how much can be fitted into 24 hrs. Iceland has been an incredible surprise with more rewards than we ever expected, not least of which included the Northern Lights. The friendly locals, fascinating geography and history are just a few more reasons to visit this hardy country. Definitely one to tick off the list and perhaps put on the list again for another visit…? Who knows, we’ll see.