Iceland 2012
09-13 February 2012
Pete, Chris, Christine & Me
Accommodation: Hotel Cabin,
Reykjavik
Locals: Unintelligible and Viking
looking but exceptionally friendly.
Geography: Black Lava Mountains
and plains smattered with snow
Weather: Rain →
Sun →
Sleet/hail/snow → Sun (repeat)
Day 1:
Landed in Reykjavik at about 1am,
escaped London just in time as a massive snow storm hit Heathrow. Dinner at the
Tin Goose after leaving the house at 4pm. Easy +- 3 hrs flight with amazing
legroom and our 1st glimpse of the Northern Lights. Phenomenal
mystical green light spilt across the sky that moves and disappears and makes
you wonder if it was ever there in the first place…ethereal, surreal and
thrilling. Can’t wait to see more! Eventually arrived at the hotel and crashed
into bed after a long overdue shower at about 3am.
09:30am wake up just in time to
catch the tail end of breakfast. A very groggy bunch! But nothing a cup of
coffee couldn’t cure. With white clouds peeling off the snow cragged mountains
around us, we strolled into town along the sea shore, black volcanic rocks
lining the whole way. Passed the lopsided glass opera house and into the
harbour.
Looks so much like Hout Bay: same
boats, smell and seaweed, but H2O a little colder!! Stunning clear sea green
ocean and apparently one of the top 10 diving stops in the world. Who Knew??!!
Found a whale watching tour for 8000 ISK (1pound = +-200ISK) and spent the rest
of the afternoon chasing one poor humpback whale off the coast, avoiding the weather
on deck and attempting to keep breakfast down. (Not the calmest of oceans!!). I
think the whale had the last laugh though.

He swam in circles around the
boat making us run from side to side to back in the Icelandic hail while our
captain shouted “whale-12 o’clock”, “whale-3 o’clock!” Back to the hotel for
dinner before ‘suiting up’ in every item of warm clothing we owned and heading
out to hunt for some clear skies. A short drive to the south-shore and we were
blessed with the most incredible sight. Solar particles blasted into the
atmosphere creating shifting lines of green light that looked more like a
moving impressionist painting than a scientific phenomenon. And just as
suddenly as we saw them they faded and were gone. Back onto the bus, but 5 mins
later another cosmic green light show! More alien than natural, the whole
experience was made even more special by the singularity of the evening. All
Northern Lights trips were cancelled for the duration of our stay.

Day 2:
Early wake up to catch the bus to
the Blue Lagoon, a huge natural pool in lava rocks heated by geothermal waters
and filled with silica and algae. Left a grumpy Christine to spend the day in
Reykjavik. The bus ride took us south towards Kefvlavik (sp?) through a land
straight out of Lord of the Rings.

Black gnarly volcanic lava rocks, crusted
and crumbly. A modern Mordor covered in patchy thick green moss and smattered
with snow. A perfect landscape for the local legends of trolls, goblins and
elves.
Arrived and were greeted by a
very modern building. Everything done with a waterproof chip on a bracelet:
locked locker in change rooms, buy drinks, order poolside massages…!!!

Spent
hours just ‘lolling’ in the heated steamy waters, drink in hand (Viking beer
for the boys and Blue Lagoon cocktail for me). Steamed and sweated in the
poolside sauna and steam room, massaged by the waterfall falling into the pool
and did face masks with silica paste. Eventually dragged our lethargic bodies
into the showers and back onto the bus for a snooze through the lava plains to
Reykjavik.

Back in town, feeling refreshed
we walked through the city streets up to the church. Walked past a heated pond
for the ducks and swans, up Bankstraet and via a small café for a lunch of
panini’s and pizza. Rounded this off nicely with coffee and a cookie from ‘C is
for Cookie’ coffee shop. Really relaxed coffee shops and browsing stores all
over Reykjavik. The whole atmosphere is very chilled. Big music and art scene
so lots of shops to do with that. Stopped for a while at the church to admire
the incredible organ, the sparse Nordic architecture and the view from the bell
tower.
Tried the local public toilets on
the street corner before winding our way through the streets back to the hotel.
But not before finding a pub to watch the rugby and to buy a woollen hat (as
you do!).
After a quick freshen up at the hotel we
caught the bus back into town. Found the pub, but sadly no rugby as the French
ground was frozen (6 nations France vs Ireland – I really need to find more
girl
friends!). Turned out to be a real one horse pub and with no rugby we were
entertained by old country and western songs from the Dolly Parton era…?!? Nice
Tuborg beer though. Next was dinner at a restaurant whose name I couldn’t begin
to pronounce let alone spell. Fortunately, the boys’ threats to eat puffin and
mink whale proved empty and we enjoyed a delicious meal of steak (Pete) and
Icelandic Cod (Chris and Me). Not to be outdone by the late starting locals, we
headed to a dark woody bar with Polar beer on tap and some very friendly
locals. (Note to self: never ask an Icelandic barman to recommend a drink. The
result will be a delicious albeit deadly cocktail.)

Had a great chat to Hanna, a
local lady I met in the bathroom twice and then at the bar. She takes hikers
all over Iceland, up the mountains, volcanoes and glaciers. Didn’t/couldn’t
last much longer after the cocktail so back to the hotel and crash into bed.
Day 3:
Early rise for our last day out
and about. Booked on a Golden Circle Bus tour. 8 hrs of sightseeing into the
interior of this incredible country.

First Stop: One of the early
Icelandic settlements now occupied by a very American looking church. Icy wind
and rain chased us quickly back onto the bus in spite of the beautiful view
across green hills to the sea. Drive through local farm land with many an
Icelandic ‘horse’ on show. (Really the size of a large Shetland pony, but don’t
dare call them ponies!)
Next Stop: Gullfoss, the Queen of
Icelandic waterfalls, a roaring mass of water thundering down 2 tiers of
volcanic rock and carving a massive canyon to the sea. Beautiful and Icy. Would
definitely give Niagara falls a run for its money.

Back onto the bus to brave more
icy roads before reaching our lunch stop at Geysir geothermal field and hot
springs. After warming up on thick Icelandic meat stew and feeling the effects
of a simulated 5.0 magnitude earthquake. We hobbled over the ice like drunk
penguins to see the hot springs. Incredible to glimpse the violent, incessant
churning happening just below the earth’s surface. Bubbling mud and boiling
water and steaming earth, broken every few minutes by an explosion from
Strokkur, the smaller more reliable sister of Geysir after whom all other
geysers are named. (‘Geysir’ = Icelandic word!).
Eventually back on the bus after
a slightly longer stay caused by an oil leak. Drove through a complete white
out where the only thing we saw was an isolate dogsled disappearing into the
snow.

Final Stop: Pingvellier National Park. What a way to end
the day! A massive inland lake indicating the start of the visible crack/rift
between the Atlantic plates!! The mid-Atlantic rift literally splices Iceland
in half making it the only country (I think) to span across 2 continental
plates: The North American plate and Eurasian Plate. Where the earth’s crust is
literally being ripped apart, crystal blue water bubbles up. And to add human
to geological history, this is also where the Vikings used to meet once a year
to make laws and settle disputes. An incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site!!
Nearly got left behind after
straying from the path and falling waist deep into the snow!
Easy drive back to Reykjavik,
before a low key dinner and bed.
Day 4:
04:30am wake up for 5am pick up
to the airport. Easy drive and check in before wandering through duty free
spending our last krona (and a little more on volcanic earrings!!) Bought some
of the unique Icelandic sweets (a frequent mixture of chocolate covered
liquorice!?!) and a T-shirt for Pete. Eventually onto the plane and back to
England flying over grey seas and snowy land that looked just like a winter
patchwork quilt.
Home and once again it strikes me
how fast 4 days can go and how much can be fitted into 24 hrs. Iceland has been
an incredible surprise with more rewards than we ever expected, not least of
which included the Northern Lights. The friendly locals, fascinating geography
and history are just a few more reasons to visit this hardy country. Definitely
one to tick off the list and perhaps put on the list again for another visit…?
Who knows, we’ll see.